Ouch

One of the slippery rocks  finally got me.

Yes, I'm blue

Fellow hiker Naps walked me back to the trailhead, a local hiker drove me to the nearest urgent care center, and the medical team  sympathetically, cheerfully, and quickly ptocessed me into a cast. Recvery time is over six weeks, so my carefully drawn plans will still be useful in 2019!

Sean will be returning me to Round Hill, and Barbara Cook has offered to pick up the Ion and drive it home on her way back from vacationing in New England.

Happy birthday, Marie

The lakes, birds, and flowers here in New Jersey's forest would be enjoyable for you, I think, and you surely would have a glorious time with your grandchildren adding more rock sculptures to the unusual collections around Sunfish Pond. 

The backpacking? Less so, possibly, but you would endure it out of love and determination. These days, I would try harder to see the difference between what you chose to enjoy with me and what you actually like to do.

Still missing you, expect I always will.

Nash Dake crater trail

States Of Mind

Third day on the most challenging section of the Trail I have attempted so far. Done.

New Jersey - New York border on the Trail

x

The light drizzle hardly seemed worth spending the day idling in a chilly shelter, so the seven hikers all set off with packs and bodies wrapped against the storm. A few more swampy boardwalks, a little more drizzle … fellow section hiker Naps tried to arrange a shuttle in to Warwick for a night off trail, but wound up hiking up after me and joining in my plan to go to ground in Fort Montgomery.

According to the map, this is Prospect Rock

Up there? You're kidding, right?

Yes, the Trail goes right by it

A moss covered stone

Yes, those are rebar steps driven into the rock

The trail in New York, we agreed, must have been designed by someone who drew a straight line along the map of the ridge leading north, and laying out the trail accordingly, directly over the piles of fossilized sea bed tossed up by the retreating glaciers … except that it was obvious that the path had been adjusted for a maximum of rock scrambling and a maximum number of high points crossed. Several times, we took the ascents over the wet, slippery rocks one at a time while the other waited ready to call for help if the climber slipped.

Tired, soaked, and sore, we reached the parking lot where the Ion was waiting about 3 pm. It was a happy sight after eight hours of hiking! We drove to the Bellview Creamery for emergency recovery assistance of the dairy variety, and then took the highway north to the Bear Mountain Bridge Inn in Fort Montgomery.

Naps checked into cottage #1, Ten Mile Snail checked in to cottage #4, and - since #2 and #3 were already taken - the inn owner turned on the “NO VACANCY” sign. It's a very small inn at the highway's edge, run by an older couple who are, they say,taking care of it for their son.

Tomorrow, Naps and I will resupply, do laundry, and recover while another storm wave passes by. Then, back to Bellview Creamery by shuttle and four days of hiking back to Fort Montgomery. Bounce, bounce … and on to Connecticut!

Up! ... Wait, after I finish this donut

Predawn start today, silencing my vibrating alarm quickly to avoid disturbing the other shelter occupants and heading out on the Trail by 6:40 am.

A perfect morning for hiking!

Several innovative and sturdy bridges

The renowned New Jersey AT boardwalk

 

It's an art, getting everything quietly out of the shelter and onto the picnic table and stuffed into my pack, all the while cooking up oatmeal …. The retired teachers from Georgia rose early also, and debated whether to take the time to make a hot breakfast. We all share a concern with getting over the next section while the weather is clear.

Funny things you learn about people out here. I was not as surprised as I  might have been to see that neither really understood how to prepare oatmeal using a water boiler, since I had watched them struggle with making a quick rice and instant vegetable concoction last night. I did offer help, but they declined. Okay, hike your own hike!

They are faster hikers than I am, though. They caught up and passed me twice as we walked the low ridges and bogs, and finally left me behind for good on the climb up to Wawayanda Ridge.

Wawayanda Ridge

The hike to the ridge was not as difficult as I was afraid it might be. The trail did climb through several boulder riversx but the total climb was less than half of the northside approach to the Priest that I did last year.

Also, a local hiker tipped me to a welcome surprise that energized my spirits for the climb, a farm market offering fresh cider donuts and serious ice cream … so I enjoyed lunch there before sprinting (erm, or staggering?) up to the ridgetop.

Motivational supplies

Saturday's forecast is calling for more chilly rain. I may try out my rain kilt, or I may just sit tight here in the shelter.

It doesn't have any water, but it's dry!

The bright clear sky this morning belied any intent of sending difficult weather my way, but the forecast kept me moving as I thumped across the flat onetime sod farms now become a wildlife refuge. Avian songs filled the skies, with nary a rattle to be heard ... perfection, only slightly dented by an SUV barreling down the back road.

A New Jersey swamp trail boardwalk

Pochuck Shelter

The trail then dove into a forest of old swamp oak and took to a chain of boards stretched across one of New Jersey's renowned swamps. Then, across open fields, now swept by chilly gusts - yup, accurate forecast, to the hour - and up the first ridge slope to Pochuck shelter. I arrived by 11 am and settled in for a "nero" (near zero miles) day. The leading edge of the thunderstorm followed a half an hour later.

There's no water supply at this shelter, but it will give me a dry space to make an early start on tomorrow's perfect forecast. I will need it! The next shelter is 13 miles away, beyond a rocky 900 foot climb.

Communications for the week ahead

The combination of challenging climbs, stormy weather, and long stretches between approved tent sites may limit my ability to get back on line before the 15th. Thanks in advance for your patience!

Off trail

The Ion started right up after I loaded pack and gear, changed shoes, and pulled away. Next resupply point, Bellvale next to the hot dog stand, less than fifty yards from the Bellvale Creamery.

Looking west from the Bellvale Creamery patio

A conversation overheard that could have been my younger self --

"Dad, this is the best creamery I have ever ... Actually, this is the first creamery I have ever been to, and this is the best ice cream I have ever eaten. May I try the blackberry flavor, too?"

A Squirrely Day

… hundreds of them, leaping over rocks and branches, flashing fluffy gray-trimmed tails as they dodged even faster chipmunks. Spring has arrived, hurry, hurry, hurry!

Eh. I was content to make another slow start and ease down the trail, keep my water supply refilled, and take breaks when joints and muscles complained. Plenty of time today.

My pace was still good enough that bypassing Rutherford shelter and going on to High Point was a possibility. Only common sense (or laziness?) kept me from pushing my feet over the last mountain.

It was a good choice! Here's a photo of the shelter.

Rutherford shelter

The satellite dish is a sight gag, of course, there's no TV or even power in the cabin. Entries in the log book bewail the poor reception and channel coverage. One writer complained that he had hoped to encourage the local bear to watch a Game of Thrones rerun with him, but ….

For myself, I managed to get the tent up and everything under cover before a mid afternoon rain squall hit. Definitely a good choice, the Ion would not have appreciated a drenched rat stumbling up and climbing in.

After the rain passed, the sky cleared, the sun and the leaves turned the woods bright green, and the birds leaped into an ecstatic evensong welcome to Spring!

Tomorrow, I expect to greet the Ion in the parking lot and drive to Warwick, New York, for two nights in an overpriced two star hotel. Laundry, shower, refill my backpack, recharge my electronics, and recharge myself with a restaurant meal.

Thursday morning, the car should be near Bellevue, George Lightcap' s shuttle should carry me back to Unionville. Then, I plan to head out for another week on the Trail. Massachusetts or bust!

Just walking

Beautiful scenery along the ridge today. Unhappily, the smartphone camera has died.

I crossed Rattlesnake Mountain without seeing any more of those inhabitants, and made it to Gren Anderson shelter in time to set up my tent before the drizzle started again.

Tomorrow, Rutherford shelter, and Tuesday back at High Point.

Getting high with a firewatcher and other tales

Three new things learned today as I continued northward thru New Jersey!

As I hiked up to Catfish Fire Tower, I was greeted by the tower's fire warden, who invited me to climb up with him to see the view! So of course, being completely comfortable with scaling open lattice frames, I eagerly did. Great view, all the way to the High Point Monument in the north. I should be there by Tuesday.

Bob has been working at this tower as a New Jersey firespotter for 33 years, he told me. He and his fellow co-workers who man the 21 towers also detail out for big fires across the country. Did I know about the Shenandoah Park fire that is blocking the AT thru hikers, he asked? I did not. (Bob was mistaken. The fire that closed the Trail briefly was in Hot Springs, NC. )

After I signed his log book and took a flyer for their national organization, we said farewell and I continued north.

Catfish Tower

A few hours later, I met a couple of girls marching along ahead of their mother, who slowed to exchange trail information. She and her daughters are taking a fourth grade year of travel learning, and one of the girls had asked to walk the whole Appalachian Trail ... They compromised on a selection of day hikes on the AT, though the daughter objected that it didn't feel quite fair not to do it end to end. I suggested that Mr. MacKaye's articles on his seminal vision of the Trail might be worth reading ... But a full year of travel as a fourth grader? Now that's home schooling!

At day's end, I stopped by Crater Lake to filter water and refill the pack's bladder before climbing the last mile to my tentsite for the evening. Some locals were already set up, and I asked about the lake's name; the woman told me that a sign at one end of the lake described it as the result of glacial action. So, why "Crater"? It remains a mystery.

Some flowery postscripts from Racoon Ridge

Just some extra photos on the Friday climb.

Mohican Outdoor Center

Note to my grandson: given the choice between scraping wintry mix off the tent in the morning in Pennsylvania and struggling to set up camp after hiking in afternoon heat and humidity in New Jersey, I choose A. 

Even though the staff here at the center granted me thru hiker privileges and a free breakfast.

Roughing it at the MOC

Rattler!

New Jersey is beautiful! Well, Sussex County along the Delaware River, as seen from Racoon Ridge about 800 feet up. I stopped several times to enjoy the view and the birdsong …

View from Racoon Ridge (local spelling?)

Sunfish Pond - rock art by local fishers?

On the way down I heard a loud chattering sound and was wondering what kind of bird ... wait, notabirdSTOPwhereisitTHERE … much too close ahead of me, a large vibrating black rattle at the end of a patterned serpentine body!

Its head was down when I took this photo

It was not coiled to strike, so i jumped back quickly and then froze. Its narrow triangular head lifted, but did not turn in my direction; would it slither off if I stayed quiet? Nope.

The tail had stopped buzzing. The body was discolored and dull, could it be injured? I took two photos, then slowly moved by on the other side of the path, watching it watch me. Buzz off, it said, so I did.

The ranger at the Mohican Outdoor Center was eager to hear my report of the animal's behavior, and asked about a number of details I had not observed (male or female?). The timber rattlers in the area are being threatened by a fungal infection, it seems, that destroys all of their senses, sight, sound, and infrared. Poor critter.

Tomorrow's stop is a tentsite at the foot of Rattlesnake Mountain. I will count on my Maori good luck travel charm to continue to keep me unbitten.

Warmed up!

Among the thousands of arbitrary clusters of people or things that we make and cover with a thick layer of prejudice, New Jersey is one of the most puzzling. How did the small corner that has served as Manhattan's back yard for over three centuries become the image we associate with the entire State?

High Point State Park is certainly more scenic than the highest point in - to pick another State with serious self image problems - Delaware.

Yes, Delaware does have a high point. It's in the center of a shopping mall. 

New Jersey High Point Memorial

True, the New Jersey High Point Memorial was closed off by some worn sawhorse barriers declaring it off limits due to unsafe conditions, a electrical repair van was backed up to it, and the gent collecting his tools had dressed the part of a blue collar Joisey laborer on a hot summer day.

It was a good morning walk nevertheless, and - breaking the New Jersey's tradition for out of staters at their bridges -- I didn't have to pay a fee to get out of the park!

Hot and humid, though. I plan to see that spike again next Tuesday when I hike in from the south.

Overture 2018

Backyard tenting to check out new gear. The neighborhood raccoon turned up its nose and declined to stop by.

A bivy and an ultralight rain tarp

And a rain kilt, aye

I plan to drive north on May 2, and start the first of my planned AT section hikes on May 5 at Delaware Water Gap. Four weeks of shuffling north should bring me into northwestern Connecticut.

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy now has a searchable interactive map available online that can locate shelters and other points of interest along the way. (HOV lanes and trailside coffee shops soon, no doubt.)

Explore the Trail

Coda

Yes, it is snowing. And?

Serious chocolate ice cream.

Hot fudge topping. With

Toasted coconut and

Sour gummi worms * and

Chocolate sprinkles.

In the cold.

Less than half an hour after a chicken sandwich.

The Ion needed refueling, and there was a deli

* The existence and popularity of sour gummi worms in conjunction with chocolate ice cream has seriously disturbed my belief in a harmonious and trustworthy Universe.

I will recover. Someday.

Or, not.